Around the world, independent restaurants are threatened both by Covid-19and the social distancing measures necessary to contain the pandemic. In oneTokyo community, restaurant patrons have organized to support local eateriesduring the «emergency» declared in early April. Based upon an ethnographicstudy of independent restaurants and drinking spots, this essay discusses theresilience of a local culinary community, comprised of restauranteurs andpatrons, as well as the role played by community ethnography.